We met Thierry Wasser in Dubai, where he flew in with a story about the latest novelty of the famous French House Guerlain - men's perfume Guerlain Homme. It would seem that interesting? Nothing. Except, perhaps, the fact that the history of Guerlain House has about 200 years, and many generations of perfumers carefully keep the secrets of creating the most exquisite perfumes of this brand, passing them from mouth to mouth. Yes, the fact that Thierry’s profession is not quite ordinary. He is the "nose" of Guerlain House, and today his amazing sense of smell is behind the creation of all the new fragrances of this legendary brand.
Thierry admits that he inherited the mantle of the master of perfumery from Jean Paul Guerlain himself, whom he calls only a "master". The feeling of admiration for his mentor runs through our conversation, and Thierry reveals several episodes from his biography, which make it possible to understand how much the student adopted from such an interesting person as Jean Paul Guerlain.
Together with Thierry, Elizabeth Sirot, director of the Guerlain House for International Public Relations and the Press, flew to Dubai. Elizabeth is just a walking encyclopedia, ready to give out momentary information about everything that, in one way or another, is connected with the Guerlain brand. This energetic lady has been working in the company for several decades, and probably there is hardly anything that she does not know about a whole galaxy of spirits or about people who are filled with the history of the company. This amazing duo turned out to be in Dubai, before going to Kuwait and then returning back to Paris.
Thierry, at the time of our acquaintance, worked in the company for only four months, but his relationship with House Guerlain began long before that, even when the young Thierry was studying such a difficult and rare profession - the “nose”.
Born in Montreux, on the shores of Lake Geneva in Switzerland, Thierry grew up among vast meadows. It was there that his passion for studying herbs and plant aromas began to arise. “I always enjoyed my way to school more than studying in it,” Thierry admits with a smile, “and I also loved picking herbs the same way as other guys in my class collected football cards.” At age 20, Thierry was educated as a botanist. One day he came across an article in a local magazine about the Swiss company Givaudan, the largest producer of flavors and aromatic additives, and at the same time he realized that perfumery would become his life’s business. Thierry made an appointment with Jean Hadorn, director of the Perfume School, and in 1981 began to take classes on the course. After six years of study, he received the specialty "Perfumer of delicate aromas" in Givaudan, Paris.
After graduating, Thierry traveled with Dior for a full nine years to New York and returned to Paris after the launch of Dior Addict.
"Guerlain House is the pinnacle of perfume art," says Thierry. - “Even in Givaudan, the ingredients of their aromas were carefully classified. But here! When I once accidentally looked into the refrigerator in which they were stored, I flew in cool from the authorities. They put a lock on the refrigerator and were strictly forbidden to approach it. another time I loaded Vetvier, the best-selling Guerlain fragrance in the analyzing machine, I was caught again. There was a scream! " After these stories, the time has come for our questions and answers to Thierry, in which he tried to uncover the secret of strong bonds and utter adoration of Jean Paul Guerlain and to tell how he became the "nose" of this legendary fashion house.
Thierry, how did you feel, becoming the “nose” of such a famous perfume brand and receiving the blessing of Jean Paul Guerlain himself?
The first is a frightening responsibility. Previously, I only worked in the department, and should not have made that choice. Now, all this burden is on my shoulders! Jean-Paul is an absolute genius, and every perfume of the company contains his handwriting inside.
When was the Guerlain Homme fragrance that you presented in Dubai released?
It was first introduced in September 2008. However, I spoke about him already in June, when we celebrated the 180th anniversary of the Guerlain House. I had and have to work hard. In addition to actually creating a new product, I want to reorganize the laboratory and restructure the work of departments in order to be sure of the sustainability and viability of the brand.
What is the most exciting thing about your profession?
So far I can not control the mixture of aromas and the creation of a new product. Today I am part of a brand, and all processes are interconnected. It is real magic to be a perfumer of such a legendary company, sharing and conveying your feelings through aroma and creating your own interpretations of the wishes of the "master".
How do you visualize a perfume? How is the concept of new spirits created?
Perfume is a message in a bottle. I have to talk with many of the ingredients, read their secret meaning, and then they begin to inspire you. An inspiration may also be some situation or a fleeting conversation. Anything can turn into perfume. We translate human moods into aromas. Any perfume should be an expression of feelings, a flickering smell or even thought. Jean Paul, a true master, knew how to do it better than anyone else. Maybe this was an expression of his love, which he had for his woman, which led to the creation of divine spirits. Everything went and comes from the heart.
Today, marketing specialists usually provide a brief history and ask to create a product within its framework. Fortunately, in Guerlain, which has a master, we are the first to create perfumes. Marketing comes later.
From your point of view, what makes perfumes bad or good?
That's a very difficult question. Sometimes the market is not ready to accept something new and different from what it already was. Then people say perfumes are bad. For example, our legendary Shalimar perfumes, first released in 1921, did not at all appeal to the then public. However, when Mr. Guerlain invited his wife on an ocean cruise, and Madame Guerlain appeared at an evening reception in the cloud of these spirits, everyone around enthusiastically started talking about the new product. Upon the couple's return from a cruise to Paris, the Shalimar perfume was re-introduced to the market in 1925 and became the undisputed hit of the 1920s! Sometimes, someone has to push a product to enable it to be understood.
Another fragrance - Derby, created in 1983, did not receive any reviews at all. It turned out that his time had not yet come. He appeared too early. Today is one of Guerlain's best sellers. I believe that there are no bad flavors. Just creating new spirits, it's like playing heads and tails, you never know what the chances are ...
Who is your spiritual guide?
Your life and career often depends on random encounters. I am very grateful to the people who directed me. When I was 16, my teacher began to show me different herbs, talk about them. Having started working at this age, I did very poorly in ordinary school. He gave me the opportunity to explore a new field of activity for me. However, botany is a very narrow specialization. At that time, two companies - Femenich and Givaudan produced aromas. I applied for a job in both, and was later invited to an interview. Right at the Givaudan factory, I passed the smell test and got a job. Today in my life I have Jean Paul Guerlain myself. One who respects elders receives unexpected rewards as a result.
You mentioned that to create new fragrances, you need two.
This is a job requiring complete privacy. The fragrance is on a piece of paper in the form of a formula, and you are in the laboratory with yourself. Then you need to open someone. For this fragrance, Guerlain Homme, I wanted to combine fresh notes with warm notes, and at some point I stopped. Jean Paul entered the laboratory, and I let him smell the sample. He said: "Add rhubarb." And that’s it. Only the result was stunning. The perfume was excellent. Conclusion - when you are at a dead end, forget about pride, seek help from a teacher.
It is known that in France traditional Arab perfumes sell well. Why do you think so?
Yes it is. Two specialized boutiques were opened in the very center of Paris. Demand for their products is very high. In addition, in France every year there are many tourists from the Middle East region who buy a lot. For me, as a perfumer, it’s impossible to go past a store selling oud or bahur (Arab incense). They simply attract eastern mysticism. One person from Saudi Arabia gave my friend a bottle of oud, and now she asks me to create some flavor based on it that the French would like.
So you can expect the appearance at the House of Guerlain perfumes with oriental notes?
Arab culture spreads very quickly all over the world. I really like Arab incense, besides I just love roses. Therefore, yes, it is necessary. Maybe it will be a private collection or some limited edition. I don’t know yet. At 180 years old, Guerlain is still open to new ideas.
What are you working on now?
It's a secret.
Which markets are essential for Guerlain perfumes?
The largest consumers of our perfumes are France, Russia and the Middle East. Our skin care products are extremely popular in Japan.
What perfumes do Russian women prefer?
I think they really love the classic fragrances from Guerlain - Shalimar, L'Instant Magic, Insolence. Your women have a delicate sense of aromas and many are able to select them accurately. It also seems to me that many of our perfumes “sound” perfectly in winter, in frost, when a lady is wrapped in a cloud in a fur coat.
What perfumes do you personally like?
I love Habit Rouge and Vetvier. But when it's warm outside, I use Guerlain Homme. Usually the “maestro” Jean Paul Guerlain uses Habit Rouge, and I use Vetvier.
What is the secret to Guerlain's success?
In the production of unique skin care products, perfumes and makeup. We always follow our feelings and desires, and only then we consider marketing aspects. This secret has allowed the company to work successfully for 180 years, and it leads us further. In the future we want to pay more attention to perfumes. But, if you create perfumes on the basis of a brief history received from marketing specialists, then they will remain a brief history. For the fragrance to live through the ages - you need to put your whole soul into it.
A bit of history
Guerlain House was founded in 1828 when Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain opened his first perfume shop in Rue de Ravioli, 42. As the founder of the company and perfumer, he himself created perfumes. In this work, he was helped by sons - Amy and Gabriel. Very quickly, the brand became popular, and Pierre-Francois opened his flagship store on Rue de la Pi, 15. In 1853, he created the fragrance Eau de cologne Imperiale, which brought Guerlain's huge success. Soon, the royal spirits began to order from Pierre Francois.
Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain died in 1864, and the business passed into the hands of his sons. Gabriel led the company, and Amy created new fragrances, including bestsellers like Jicky (1889). Later, the family business passed into the hands of Gabriel Guerlain's sons: Jacot and Pierre. Jaco became a master perfumer and created several perfumes known to this day - Mitsouko (1919) and Shalimar (1921). Jaco's grandson, Jean Paul Guerlain, took the business from his grandfather and added to the bestseller list with fragrances such as Habit Rouge and Vetvier. When the LVMH group acquired the company in 2002, Jean Paul retired, but still takes an active part in creating new perfumes under the Guerlain brand.
